Bang on trend

We asked some of the industry’s experts what colours they predict we will be seeing a lot of as the new year begins. Get ahead of the game for 2020 and listen to what our professional colourists forecast.

Are your clients after a change? Well, there’s no better time than the start of a brand-new year to do so. After potentially over-indulging after Christmas, it’s inevitable that some clients may be feeling a bit sluggish and like they need a bit of a re-vamp… A hair colour change is the perfect way around this! (We think so anyway.)

There’s really no such thing as a spring clean in the midst of winter, but with everyone going back to work after what seems like an eternity for most, it feels like prime time for a fresh start – a new gym membership, makeup switch-up and perhaps, a brand new hair shade to see your clients through January.

Whether they’re leaning towards going lighter with blonde, transforming into a rich brunette, having a go at auburn hair, or even working on how to get a perfect balayage we’ve got you covered with some tips and all the inspiration you’ll need from the experts.

Warren Boodaghian, Head of Technical at HOB Salons told us that as a hair stylist, it’s important to be open to change or evolve your client’s look: “Seasonal trends can be adapted and customised even for your colour-shy or classic-colour clients. One trend I feel will be left in the year 2019 is 90’s grunge. Colour is drama free for 2020 and has a more youthful, fun outlook; the 90’s was dark and dramatic.”

Inspiration must come from somewhere when you want to nail your client’s hair colour. It’s important to stay on top of trends and expect the unexpected as you never know what’s around the corner in this industry. Warren always takes inspiration from what’s going on around the world in exhibitions, film and fashion: “It’s also important to remember that hair colour should remain fun and relatable to your clients and salon business.”

Warren notices the importance in communicating colour to a client. It’s important to remember any person can wear any hair colour: “It’s about working to create the right shade to flatter the facial canvas, but most importantly their own identity. As artists we create the perfect hair colour to frame the face and bring the client to life.”

Hair colours never go out of style, but year on year we see new trends emerging. Rose gold has been a growing influence on the hair and beauty industry since Pantone chose it as the colour of the year back in 2016, and Neil Capstick, Founder of leading haircare brand, Neäl & Wølf said: “I’m sure we will continue to see it grow in 2020 as more women are daring for the golden pink tint.”

Neal revealed how for a long time, grey hair was considered ‘dull’ or ‘aging’ but 2019 saw popularity grow for the dusty tone: “I’m sure we’ll see this trend continue with more clients looking to build in some lilac, silver and platinum tones too.”

Thomas Hills, Director at TH1 Hair, predicts that metallic finishes will be big as we start the New Year: “Smoky gold is being touted as a big contender for 2020’s hottest trend, however I’m predicting that mineralized brunette will be even bigger – essentially a cool shade of brown with a hint of metallic and plenty of gloss. It’s a really modern and exciting look for the new season. I’ve been inspired by Haider Ackermann’s Autumm/ Winter 19 show, but I really see this trend having legs well into the new year, and new season too.

“Silver-brown and granite brunette stood out for me at that particular show – they both came across as so contemporary and refreshing. Adding a high shine finish, using a colour gloss, takes this look to the next level: it’s original, it’s polished and it’s so flattering. I predict this cooler metallic hue and glossy finish will last into the year and beyond: in the same way that glowing natural-looking lit-from-within skin is the ultimate modern beauty goal, hair that is glossy and healthy looking will be major hair goals this coming year.”

When it comes to playful fantasy colour that isn’t necessarily for every day, but suited more to special occasions or summer festivals, ‘paint colour’ is set to be the hottest way to wear it next year, according to Thomas. You should be thinking about unexpected bursts of arty colour and splashes of paint worn against otherwise inconspicuous ‘norm-core’ shades, which are then styled into non-descript or traditionally prim styles.

With regards to metallic finishes, it’s a natural move on from last season’s hottest shade: pearlescent opal was the standout colour of last season, so we’re already used to seeing gem-like finishes. High fashion set the tone originally: Erdem’s dreamy gemstone shade was arguably the most exciting colour trend to emerge from A/W19 Fashion Week, which was then recreated and re-imagined all over social media:

“As an organic move on from these pearly off-white shades I predict the New Year will bring in plenty of pearlescent shades of brunette and blonde. Pearly silver will be worked into warmer golden shades of blonde for a wearable alternative to last season’s opal. Meanwhile the aforementioned cool milky and mineralised brunette tones seen at Haider Ackermann are also a progression from opal and pearl. They are also a refreshing alternative to all the warmer brunette shades and ruddy hues we saw everywhere last season.” Said Thomas.

We asked Thomas if he’s expecting any colours or trends being left behind as a ‘no-go’ for the new year, to which he told us… Corals and pinks! Thomas thinks that this colour palette has been done to death now: “They don’t look as fresh, exciting or original anymore, which defeats their point. I don’t think we will completely see the back of them, but I do think they will become much more subtle. For example, I’m still loving what I call ‘rosy brown’ – a rich warm brunette with flecks of strawberry or peach. I’m still getting plenty of brunettes asking for this shade and it’s a nice transition from faded brunette to lighter hair for S/S20.”

It is, as always, important to match a client’s skin tone to certain colours, particularly if they’re going for something totally new.

“As a general rule the cooler mineralised shades of brunette work beautifully against cooler milkier skin tones. This is a good option also for those with pink tones in their complexions and with light blue or green eye colour. Pearlised blonde can be quite easily blended bespoke to flatter a natural blonde client’s complexion, regardless of its tone. So, for example, for warm-toned skin I would add more warm pigments and keep more golden hued sections around the face, weaving the more subtle pearly white shades away from the face. For cooler complexions I would simply opt for more pinky pearlescent-white shades and work these in more heavily.” Added Thomas.

Siobhan Golden, International Technical Director for TONI&GUY and label.m, agrees with Thomas’ predictions as she believes we will

See accents of soft metallic tones in the way of olives and taupes will be hugely popular as 2020 begins: “In terms of colour technique, the popularity of the balayage will continue and will counter-act warm tones in the hair making them less dominant. As part of our new collection 2020 Trend Report the technique ‘Shadow Light’ looks to the contouring and strobing idea and utilises two colours to create a muted shadow like effect.”

Siobhan doesn’t necessarily predict any trends will be abandoned completely, simply because client’s tastes are changing all the time within a very fast pace industry: “Despite a slight take over among the muted tones, vibrancy will not die down completely. Instead, clients will ask for these shades in a low-maintenance variation such as auburn or mahogany.”

Amongst Siobhan’s colour predictions, she also revealed how there is a further incline where-by clients are beginning to embrace their natural curls. This is another trend which was picked up within TONI&GUY’s 2020 Trend Report and as a result they created the technique ‘Girls with Curls’ – a method that employs bendy rollers to add colour into the hair through a dappled balayage technique – specifically to work well with curls.

So, now you know… Our trusty balayage will be sticking around for a little while longer (phew!) and it would seem that we can expect pearly and metallic tones to be creeping in as the new year begins. Now you can recommend a specific colour to your clients based on our expert’s predictions but as Thomas pointed out; you must always take into consideration a client’s complexion. Happy new year!

Don’t forget to tag us in your colourful creations on Instagram @thesalonmaguk