Skin deep

As we approach autumn, it is important that salon owners know how to look after their clients’ skin during the seasonal change. We spoke to the skincare experts who revealed how to make the transition a smooth one.

After months of layering sun cream, after-sun and tanning oil on our faces throughout the hot weather, it is inevitable that our pores will be clogged up. As a time of transition, autumn is the best time to rejuvenate your skin and correct any summer damage.

Of course, it is necessary to look after our skin all year round, but there are certain periods in the year where it needs a little extra TLC. These times are usually during the change of season, and now it is vital you take the time in preparing clients’ complexions as we approach autumn into winter.

Dr Pauline Hili, Founder of Nourish London, explained that as we move from summer to autumn, the skin goes into a different mode where the external stressors on the skin change: “We are dealing with the longer-term effects of summer skin and having to face the effects of the cooler weather and wind on the skin. This combination often leads to drier skin, which needs greater hydration. On the positive side, as the level of daylight reduces, we spend more time in the repair cycle of our circadian rhythm resulting in the production of healthier collagen.”

In order for beauty therapists to help clients make the transition between seasons as smooth as possible, Dr Hili said: “Each skin type varies, there are some universally beneficial things one can do to support healthier skin: Top up with topical vitamin c, use a facial oil with topical antioxidants at night, consider changing cleansing routine to ensure skin is not stripped, exfoliate with a non-abrasive exfoliator and incorporate a mask regime during season change.”

After a long hot summer, it’s inevitable that many of your clients will have been applying sun creams and after-sun lotions. Dr Hili told us that sun creams do not necessarily clog up the pores; “But they can contain items that can sit heavily on the skin.” Because of this, cleansing well after a day in the sun is mandatory for healthy skin.  After-sun products should support the skin to get healthier. A lot of damage can happen after we come out of the sun and supplementing the skin with key minerals such as zinc and magnesium is vital in our after-sun products to promote healing and repair.

 Dr Hili said: “Adding probiotic essential minerals and vitamin c to the skin can be great as we approach autumn. Minerals such as zinc, magnesium and copper are vital for the skin’s metabolic repair.” 

By observing the skin’s behaviour and being prepared to make changes, clients and therapists can get the best results.  The skin is a great meter for our health.  “If you tend to get drier skin in the autumn, supplement accordingly with a richer moisturiser. For those who become oilier in the autumn, adjust regime to support normalising the sebum balance – e.g. adding B vitamins to the skin care regime.” Said Dr Hili.

It is common that people say they like to apply peels at the end of the summer. But Dr Hili informed us that being overzealous with peels can irritate and damage the skin. This, long term, can lead to skin thinning and make it more susceptible to premature aging – so don’t overdo it!

When the weather and climate changes, our lifestyle habits tend to shift too, meaning our skin has to adapt to a number of factors. This can manifest as more breakouts, an increase in dehydration and/or sensitivity, depending on your skin type. The transition from summer to autumn sees temperatures and humidity drop meaning our skin has trouble maintaining hydration and barrier defence. We may opt for hotter baths and switch on the central heating which can also trigger skin changes.

Victoria Schofield, Education Executive at Dermalogica, told us that in order to make seasonal transitions smooth, you should recommend clients visit you for Skin Analysis at the turn of each season to reassess their skin and adapt their homecare prescription: “Provide tips to manage seasonal skin changes, perhaps by providing a fact sheet they can take home. This is a great way to spark conversation with all clients about the change in weather and how it’s impacting their skin.”

Some clients may be suffering with the after-effects of too much sun during the summer, typically resulting in increased pigmentation and dryness. Victoria advises that you should offer clients professional skin services to boost their hydration levels.

“Incorporate resurfacing techniques to remove dull, damaged skin and include pigment brightening actives and super hydrating formulas to reveal a smoother, more even complexion. Educate clients on how to enjoy the sun safely and effectively defend against ageing UV rays.”

According to Victoria, autumn is a great time of year to promote professional peel services. The concern with having to avoid the sun is diminished and peels are great for renewing sun damaged skins and tackling more challenging skin fluctuations such as acne breakouts. But remember, not to go overboard with peels, as Dr Hili previously mentioned.

For healthy skin every day, Dermalogica recommends double cleansing with an oil-based cleanser followed by one suited to your key skin concern AM and PM. Exfoliating regularly to keep cell renewal at optimum, and layering hydration with a hydrating toner and a moisturiser suited to your skin type.

“Always include advice on lifestyle management such as stress levels, diet and sleep patterns which all impact skin health too.” Said Victoria.

As the summer slowly slips away, we start to notice the ‘feel good factor’ and radiance of our summer skin start to fade. The tan/glow that we worked so hard to achieve, now looks dull, dry, de-hydrated and often patchy, leaving us feeling and looking flat and tired. Looking in the mirror is a little like looking around your garden, those beautiful blooms are past their best and now look wilted and untidy.

Donna Tait, Co-Founder of Katherine Daniels, explains to give the best advice to your clients you must ensure you’re well educated in the products and ingredients you are recommending. 

“Whichever brand you use within your salon, make sure you understand what products you should be talking to your clients about and why. If you feel confident in what you’re communicating, your clients will have confidence in you. Look at what key ingredients are going to help your clients and learn why these will deliver the results they are looking for.”

Donna told us that if clients have been using good quality sun protection and following a great skincare regime, there is no reason why any sun products should ‘clog’ the skin: “The most important aspect of sun protection is making sure we apply it correctly and regularly, but it is equally important to make sure we are removing and cleaning correctly too. Sticking to your usual double cleanse will ensure any excess product is removed as well as any sweat and dirt that’s on the skin.” 

Donna recommends using treatments which focus on hydrating and restoring the skin after summer: “Prevention is always better than cure, by making sure your clients are using the correct skincare for their skin type as soon as possible is going to give them the best chance of keeping a healthy skin.” Regular treatments and skin consultations will make sure you as a therapist understand what’s going on and deliver great results. 

Ultimately, protection is what we are looking at as we step into the colder months, so Donna advises steering clear of any products that are harsh and stripping as they will leave skin vulnerable and can cause sensitivity. 

While summer air is generally more humid and moisture-rich, once the leaves begin to drop from the trees, cooler, autumnal air can be more arid – causing blocked pores, spots and even dermatological conditions such as eczema. Gabriel, Co-founder and President of ELEMIS, explained: “The drier the air, the more moisture it sucks from your skin, so you’re more likely to experience dryness and flakiness during the colder months of the year. This then leaves the skin with a lacklustre and parched appearance.”

Gabriel told us that offering expert advice to your clients is vital: “You should be offering expert advice and education to the customer on what happens to their skin during the seasonal changes, explaining that as a transitional period, this time of year is ideal for taking a close look at your complexion and reversing any summer damage, preparing your complexion for winter.”

Drier, colder air and less frequent and lower levels of sun exposure can lead to a worsening of skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis when autumn and winter start to kick in, so Gabriel explained: “As tempting as it is to linger in a super-hot bath after a long day on your feet, resist – because hot water can exacerbate irritable skin conditions. Keep bath water to a warm temperature and add some skin soothing magnesium salts to get the most out of your soak.”

Tracey Wilmot, Murad’s Education Director, said: “Skin can often seem as though its glowing, healthy and at its best when we are on vacation or enjoying a warmer summer, but by September it’s not unusual to see the effects on the skin. Over exposure to the sun, coupled with rich foods and alcohol, can create symptoms such as tightness and dehydration, inflammation, breakout and even worsen pigmentation.

“As Beauty Therapists it’s important to help clients understand that a good skincare regimen is important throughout the changing seasons, and adapt their products accordingly to protect, repair and rehydrate the skin.”

Tracy likes to encourage Beauty Therapists to set up Seasonal Skin Health Check-ups with their clients. 

At the heart of skin wellness is hydration. Tracy explained: “Water is essential to cell health, in fact when we are born, the human body is about 80% water but as we get older our cells become weaker and they begin to leak. Over time the human body rapidly loses water becoming 50-65% water as adults! Glycolic Acid opens up hydration pathways to allow better absorption of serums and masks while resurfacing the skin, improving collagen synthesis and brightening and evening skin tone.”

It is important as Beauty Therapists that you let the client know your role is not just to treat the skin in the salon with fabulous facial services, but also to provide homecare advice to ensure they are using the best products to extend the benefits of their treatment beyond the salon.

One of Tracy’s top tips to make the summer to autumn skin transition smooth is: “If you’re a make-up maven, I would encourage you to have at least 2 make up free days a week to allow skin to enjoy a mask or exfoliating treatment without cosmetics. This allows the skin to really benefit from great skincare without any interference from cosmetics. One last thing. Never go to bed with your make up on. Ever.”

Bring your skin back to life this autumn and listen to our experts! Remember, your clients need to hydrate, stay on top of their regime and avoid using too many peels to keep feeling fine.